James Went To Helsinki

So Helsinki was the next stop on the trip after falling in love with Tallinn.

We caught the ferry across which took 2.5 hours and was actually rather fun – it had a very 80’s old people kind of vibe, shit decor, country and western bands, loads of pensioners. I was quite amused, especially by being able to watch the sea whilst I pee’d.

Though upon arrival at our Airbnb, when we eventually found out which door it was, they had only made one bed out of 3 beds, one bed was also broken – which he told me that morning. If two people book a 2 or 3 bedroom flat, then maybe they want two bedrooms?

I went for a scarily expensive beer whilst someone came and sorted it out.

We didn’t actually see much in Helsinki, as we were only staying for two nights, and the first night neither of us were really up for much, other than trying to sort out some bed sheets.

Suomenlinna

On our one full day in Helsinki, we decided to…erm…not be in Helsinki. Well, we got a boat to Suomenlinna, which was a sea fortress in the 18th century, and is an island in the Baltic Sea, around 20 minutes by boat from Helsinki.

It still has a dock which repairs small boats, along with around 300 people living there – and many others coming as tourists. They also have their own brewery, and some museums, cafes, galleries.

Plus a rarity for this holiday – the sun actually came out!

We pretty much did a long and gentle walk around the island, stopping off for a drink and to enjoy the sunshine.

I appreciated the old industrial heritage, and the remains of military installations from many, many years ago.

Helsinki Itself

For actual mainland Helsinki, we did walk around for a bit, found a market and a square, and a rather enchanting train station entrance – like who would build that now?

But I have to say that I found the city itself, or at least the part we looked around, rather drab – a bit like Birmingham, say.

Everywhere was just semi-modern buildings, with little in the way of interesting architecture, bar the train station.

I think the best parts of Helsinki are the coasts and the islands – so by going to Suomenlinna we probably did the best thing.

Eating And Drinking In Helsinki

Whilst unconvinced about Helsinki, I had one of my best meals of the trip here – and possibly the only time across the 3 cities that we found somewhere to make a trad food person and a vegan happy at the same time.

It was in a place called Cafe Bar Valimo on Suomenlinna, recommended by a friend (I do listen to recommendations!) and I had the salmon soup, which is traditional Finnish food.

Bread was weird, but I really enjoyed the soup…despite the dill, because I’m yet to meet anyone who likes dill. Plus, as you can see…excellent beer, and it was still sunny.

And we had the spectacle of a seagull picking up someone’s whole ice lolly and flying away with it.

Other places worth visiting in Helsinki proper, for good beer, were Pien Shop & Bar, which is the pinkest craft beer place I’ve ever been to, with a really wide selection of cans (though some MEGA expensive) – I had yet more SOUP:

Restaurant Juova Hanahuone also had some decent beers on tap, and quite a large range, though we also ate there and it was, erm, kind of student union food, on that respect.

Plus I found a tram going to somewhere called PUB, which I thought was cute. Though on investigation afterwards, this is actually a pub on a tram, so I kind of missed the boat there. Or missed the tram.

Helsinki No Winky

And that’s it for Helsinki.

Part of me thinks maybe I’m missing something from my adventure here, have I really got to understand Helsinki?

But also I’m not too worried if I haven’t. Maybe I need to persuade my Finnish friend to take me to understand it…or maybe we should have booked had a tour of the city.

I really enjoyed the rugged nature of Suomenlinna, and my lunch/drinks in the sunshine there was actually one of the highlights of my whole 3 country trip. Yet the city itself, granted from just a few hours walk around, I mostly found just pretty ordinary. I didn’t see a charm that I always hope for, plus beer was bloody expensive – like, I knew it wouldn’t be cheap, but it really was eye-popping in places. One good meal, one bad meal.

In terms of prices, beer generally was around the £13 or so mark by time you convert 500ml to a pint…yeah I’m never going to love a place with beer almost twice the price as London. Food was more expensive too.

Our Airbnb was £322 for two nights for two people…which isn’t too bad in the grand scheme of things, a day ticket on the transport was I think €10, which including the boat to Suomenlinna, which is decent enough. I don’t remember the price of the ferry from Tallinn or the flight to Stockholm, but both were pretty cheap.

You could definitely spend a day in Helsinki and have a good time, but I’m recommend Tallinn over Helsinki for sure. Have you been? Have I missed something? Do add in the comments if so!